On exit from the customs hall at Macau International Airport one is confronted by several rows of agents offering hotels from 450 Pocata’s (affectionately renamed potatoes) per night to thousands of potatoes per night. Some quick mental arithmetic told me that was about 38UKP per night for the cheapest hotel.
First enquiries revealed there were none of these hotels available ie they were full for the night and I was also told that this is the best price one can get. If it’s busy or a Friday or Saturday night then the prices increase.
Feeling a little wounded, I spotted the tourist information office and ventured in with a spring in my step politely requesting help to find budget accommodation in the central district. Were there guest houses or homestays in that area? The stern, stoney faced, female attendant didn’t say anything but retrieved a tourist map from her secret pile, opened it out, ringed a road called Rue da Felicidade, reported that budget accommodation was available in this area and bus no. MT1 or MT2 would go as far as the Lisboa Hotel.
She then carried on about her other business which was nondescript at the other end of the counter.
The bus it was to be. Potatoes. I had better get some. The ATM in the arrivals concourse obliged willingly enough but I felt sure the 500 potatoe note would have produced something less than a smile from the bus driver.
I bought a coffee and a mysterious sweet bread item at the first floor cafe. Even there the 500 potatoe note produced a mocking guffaw. Friendly lot so far. However I felt more prepared for the bus trip than I had previously and took my time over the coffee and bun.
Understanding one’s arrived at the Lisboa is not difficult when it happens. It’s massive, oddly shaped and well ‘labelled’. One endures that uneasy mix of uncertainty and anxiety at all prior stops as the ‘is this the stop?’ question goes un-answered.
 |
| Rue da Felicidade |
A 15 minute walk through the centre of Macau’s commercial/shopping district per the airport tourist map saw me at Rue da Felicidade. The red fronted China Sea style double story terraced houses that line Felicidade create a pleasant ambience that is further developed by the conversion of some into small restaurants. The road was the centre of Old Macau’s night life at some time in the distant past!
150 – 200 yards down the road I had yet to discover any accommodation and was seriously thinking about engaging plan B (which was to pay an even more exorbitant amount for the first night in a much higher profile hotel and spend the first part of the following day sourcing budget friendly accommodation) when, like magic, on my left appeared a hotel called Hotel Kou Va.
 |
| Hotel Kou Va |
550 potatoes a night for a double room with en-suite bathroom, hot water, air con, satellite TV, without breakfast and on inspection proved to be clean and with firm bed. A room was available. Wi fi existed on the floor but did not reach all rooms. It felt great to have a base, to get rid of the 10kg backpack, to get rid of the 3kg sportspack and have a shower.
Airport agents play a game that is not always in the best interests of the tourist.
Down The Road 