When a friend suggested we ride the Mae Hong Son Loop my first thoughts were of an epic train journey on stylish rolling stock through a part of China that I had still to discover.
As he talked more I discovered how wrong I was.
The adventure he had in mind was a road adventure to be undertaken on motorbikes through an area of North West Thailand that was something of a pilgrimage for the mesh jacket and leather boot brigade.
As a ‘biker’ during the late 80’s the appeal soon sunk in. I was hooked.
The outline plan was to fly to Chiang Mai. Take the first day to assess the bike hire situation, strike a deal on the bikes and refine the route detail with information gleaned from the bike outlets. The following three days would be ‘on the road’ enjoying (hopefully) whatever came our way along this famous biking pilgrimage. The afternoon of the third road day had to see us arrive back into Chiang Mai to return the bikes and rest up before an early flight out the following morning.
My riding buddy was Simon Wong. Later in the trip re-named Mr Gadget.
At 08.30 hours on the 20th June 2011 we departed Tony’s Big Bikes (17 Ratchamankha Rd. Chiang Mai – Tel: +66 053207124) in the heart of Chiang Mai astride two Honda Phantoms. Bikes somewhat smaller in cc than I had imagined we would take but recommended by Geoff at Tony’s Big Bikes as being eminently capable of the task ahead, frugal, reliable comfortable and light and manageable through the enormously winding route ahead.
The bikes cost us 500 baht per day each plus 100 baht per day insurance each. A helmet was included. The insurance was not compulsory and appeared to cover serious bike damage. Personal cover is compulsory and is included in the bike rental. (500 baht = 10UKP)
Simon had put a lot of thought into the route, converting distances into times and selecting probable overnight stop locations. We would go ‘clockwise’ leaving Chiang Mai in a South Westerly direction with a target of Mae Cham by lunch. Kuhn Yuam by mid afternoon and possibly Mae Hong Son by evening. The first day was to be the toughest I remember him telling me. His reasoning was that we would be full of energy and enthusiasm on this first day, therefore covering it as easy as blinking.
I felt great during the first hour of riding. The road was wide, straight and the traffic quietened the farther we went. I was happy at 60-70km/hr. Simon would race ahead and then wait, repeatedly. There were lots of waving hand signals as I passed him each time. I still felt good. Completely relaxed and enjoying the improving scenery. After no more than an hour Simon had pulled over in front of a small line of shops. Coffee and possibly noodles came to mind.
Simon was disturbed. I was not going fast enough. We would not make his schedule. I had to speed up. I offered some defence in that I needed to get used to the bike. The reality of it was that I had to get out of dream mode and into achieve mode. I understood but wished we weren’t against the clock so much.
After two more short, fifteen minute stops in the National Park area of Doi Inthanon, we rolled into the small town of Mae Cham at about 12.30hrs. At the second of the stops it had just started to rain and I made my only wet weather clothing purchase. A poncho. At this stop I also ‘borrowed’ a couple of plastic bags to wrap around my bag on the rear carrier of the bike.
Simon seemed happier at our Mae Cham lunch stop but I am not sure whether that was because he liked the chicken rice lunch or because I had speeded up enough. I hoped it was because I had speeded up but the chicken had, apparently, been free range.
Heavy rain delayed our departure from Mae Cham until about 1.45pm. The following three hours of motorcycling were the most challenging that we were to come across. Our route onward toward Kuhn Yuam took us to heights of around 1600 metres.
The temperature dropped as the elevation increased. Persistant light rain stayed with us for most of the three hour plus ride to Kuhn Yuam. My jeans and light shoes became sodden and I became cold and miserable. The poncho leaked slowly adding to the misery.
Occasionally my concentration waned and I found myself changing up a gear when I should have been changing down!
I felt anxious and displayed caution at the tight wet road turns, of which there were many, and very cautious of the tight turns that appeared to be marked with rain AND soil run off. My utmost concentration was commanded by the not infrequent sharp bend on a steep decline, some with scary adverse cambers and marked with greasy soil run off. OMG.
Visibility had declined considerably also.
At probably the highest point the light rain became torrential and I opted for a break at a farmers rest shelter (see photo). Simon was ahead and hadn’t realised I had stopped. There were a bunch of locals, probably farm workers, some with bikes also taking shelter. One was kind enough to point out that one of the bungees retaining my bag had become unhooked. Simon re-appeared. Apparently the GPS was suggesting we had missed a turn. Simon encouraged me to leave the shelter and make the way back with him to the missed turning. Just when I was beginning to make friends!
Within a further 5km we wheeled into a small village. The village store presented itself. We parked up. Ordered coffee. Refueled from a hand pumped, sight gauged petrol machine and relaxed for 15mins. I exercised in a vain attempt to lift my body temperature a little.
To be continued.
Down The Road 